Friday, 8 March 2013

El Chalten - discovering the joy of trekking

Next stop from El Calafate we got a bus up to El Chalten, a very tiny artificial town which purely exists for tourists, but there are nice breakfast cafes all the same. We had finally started using our waking shoes and jackets we had been lugging around since the start, so wanted to do some more trekking. And being in the trekking capital of South America, we did a walk to the base camp of Fitzroy mountain and Laguna de Los tres, a gorgeous glacial lake with glaciers leading into it. The last hour was a tough uphill struggle, but very worth it...

 

Laguna de Los tres

John sampling the glacial water. No bottles water will ever taste as good

 

Unfortunately, Fitzroy, the main mountain was hiding behind some clouds, but still was stunning

 

 

Thursday, 7 March 2013

El Calafate - the world's end... Almost

Flying into El Calafate was surreal, the landscape is completely barren and all that can be seen is mountain tops and a few lakes before the airport comes into focus. However, there is a lot to do here and we made the most of our 3 days.

The town is a cross between a ski resort and a ranch, but it has all you need for the outdoor activities, and obviously a massive casino.

Day 1 we walked around the town and went to learn about glaciers at the museum.

  • The blue colour comes from the energy from the blue solar rays;
  • The glacier we went to visit, Perito Moreno is one of the only glaciers in the region not to be receding in size;
  • The glaciers namesake was a scientist and philanthropist who scaled the vast majority of the region and helped with the Chilean / Argentinian border negotiations.
Day 2 we did the BIG ICE. A trek on the glacier for about 5hrs. It was incredible and you can hear it creaking for most of the day and chunks of ice constantly fall into the sounding waters. It is actually advancing at a speed of up to 3m per day. Here is what we saw...

 

A panoramic view so you can understand the sheer size of the "north face"
It's a monster
 
 
 
Sarah getting ready for the BIG ICE! with one of guides, Sefe
And our other guide, Charlie, with one of the Graucho style hats
The Blue Lagoon where we stopped for lunch after a couple of hours of ice trekking.

And then we crossed back over the lago Argentina and slept for the next 14 hrs

Our final day we decided to go horse riding with Luciano the Gaucho, and three horses called Manuel. Sarah's horse susinctly told her that she would be always at the back due to two reasons. It was fat, and my horse wouldn't stop farting.

The ranch

Suited up and ready to go

We received all our instructions in Spanish, only really picking up "Vamos and kick" and off we went for the next five hours.
The views were incredible.

Sarah's horse, true to form, lagging at the back. But she was having a great time

We then stopped for lunch so my horse could refil on fart juice and so Sarah could stuff her face.

 

And now we are on the bus to El Chalten, where we are planning to do a couple of small treks to the base camp of Mount Fitzroy, and plan the next week of treks before we get the four night Navimag boat through the Chilean fjords from Puerto Natalis to Puerto Montt.

 

Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Uruguay - whistle stop tour

So, after a stop off in Buenos Aires for the weekend fun we decided to take three days in Uruguay which started with a 6am wake up call and a 400m sprint after the taxi driver who drove off with John's bag. We eventually made the boat and Sarah could assume her favourite pastime...

We arrived in Montevideo which is like a smaller Buenos Aires with lovely outdoor cafes in the main squares. We went to the botanical gardens, went to a carnival museum to learn about their traditional costumes and went up the tallest building in the city to get a panoramic view, but our favourite thing was finding the Mercado del Puerto, an indoor market full of parrillas (steakhouses), each with a huge open coal cooking grill, with any cut of meat you wanted. We got involved.

Botanical Gardens

Antel Tower

 

 

This is the last of being in cities for a while, as the next stop is El Calafate in Argentinian Patagonia. Finally our walking boots will be out.